Cruising the Great Lakes

Photo recap now available

2010-08-05T14:30:00.003-04:00

A slideshow recap of the voyage is available at www.glc.org/announce/10/pdf/reduced_Brownbag_recap_8-5-2010.pdf. Thanks to all for the amazing experience!

July 24: My cruise comes to an end

2010-07-24T12:58:00.004-04:00

Luggage in the hall by 7:30 a.m.! It was another early morning. After a light breakfast, we were on our way...disembarking at 9 a.m. Central Time. We were broken into groups, based on when our flights departed, so we disembarked in stages. We spent the next 2+ hours at the beautiful Great Lakes Aquarium on the waterfront in Duluth. More than a few of us noticed we were all reading the same novel: "The Girl With the Dragon Tattoo"! For you avid readers out there, definitely pick this one up...it's a page turner. It was rather sad to leave all my new friends on the ship, passengers and crew alike, realizing that our paths may never cross again...but what an experience we shared on the Clelia II! I take many fond memories with me from this trip. Now, homeward.

July 23: Thunder Bay, Ontario

2010-07-24T07:38:00.007-04:00

After a leisurely breakfast, we set out to explore Thunder Bay, Ontario, one of the largest port cities on Lake Superior and the largest grain port in all of Canada! I opted for a tour through the city, followed by a lovely walk in a Boreal (aka Northern) forest. A local forester provided insight on the various trees, primarily tamarack, spruce, pines and cedars. We learned that the cedars in many areas are bare up to 8 feet off the ground because of the white tailed deer munching on them. As the snowbanks get higher in winter, the deer can reach higher and higher on the cedar trees! Afterwards we stopped at the Thunder Bay area Fire Protection Headquarters, run by the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources and Environment. There we toured a large yellow plane, specially designed in Montreal to allow the pilots to dip water from local lakes to fill tanks on the plane (more than 1,800 gallons!) for fire dousing. This is one of only four such planes in Canada, which cost more than $30 million each. Our driving tour also pointed out Little Finland in the old section of Thunder Bay, which includes stores and community centers for the city’s Finnish population, which at one point was the largest in Canada. Being Finnish myself, I felt right at home here! Lunch was back on the ship, followed by my last lecture on “Navigating and Fishing on the Great Lakes.” Then we were off to the final reception with Captain Uli and our farewell dinner. At the reception, we were treated to a slideshow of memories from the trip, a compilation of photos taken by the tour managers and guests. It was lovely. And dinner was extravagant: oysters, salad, lobster and baked Alaska!! I sat next to a charming 93-year-lady woman who had more energy and zest for life than most 40-somethings that I know! She was a former computer programmer for an aeronautics company, retired for close to 30 years, and had traveled all over the world. She reminded me that life is sweet at any age and the best may be yet to come. We are now sailing to Duluth, our final port of call.

July 22: Red Rock, Ontario

2010-07-23T08:11:00.009-04:00

O Canada! Today we anchored offshore of Red Rock, Ontario, about 1:30 p.m. and boarded the Zodiaks. We donned sleek yellow life vests and boarded in groups of eight, which all turned out to be very exciting in rather choppy Lake Superior waters! Reaching the dock, we were met by a line of greeters from Red Rock and the nearby town of Nipigon, all with big smiles and hearty handshakes. A friendly “moose” even made an appearance. The weather was in the 60s with fog when we had approached Red Rock, but quickly warmed to 80s and bright sunshine when we got inland. We boarded buses for a brief tour of the little town of Red Rock, including the now-closed paper mill, which previously employed many of the residents. We had a choice of easy, moderate and difficult hiking tours today. The most difficult took us up a small mountain for some dazzling views of Lake Superior below and the Clelia II, which looked quite small from those heights. Our guide was Michael Elliott, owner of a Nipigon-based adventure touring company. Along the way we spotted pink and white wild geraniums and other bright flowers and berries (we decided only the raspberries were safe for eating!), smelled the wonderful scent of white cedar, and even posed for a group photo! We also found out that the correct pronunciation is “Nip-i-gen” rather than “Nip-i-gone,” a common American pronunciation. After the hike, we visited the Québec Lodge, a beautiful log hotel built in the 1930s by the paper mill executives as a retreat. Today it has been reopened as a hotel by a young couple. A tall stone fireplace and large open-air porch with dozens of Adirondack chairs really made the place feel warm and homey. Once we relaxed in those chairs looking out over the lake, we didn’t want to leave! We stopped at the fish and hunting club on our way back to the dock, and met many local townspeople who had come out for a special BBQ potluck to celebrate the cruise ship arrival. The people were warm and friendly; it reminded me of home. My dinner companions tonight included Doug & June Wood and their friend Betty Clark from California; Judith Mabry and her 11-year-old granddaughter Sydney from North Carolina; and Charles & Antoinette Patterson also from North Carolina but originally from further south. All of us, except Sydney, enjoyed freshly caught whitefish from Red Rock. I had lax (salmon) to start and a spicy shrimp soup, with a wonderful lemon sorbet for dessert. As I type this, I’m feeling the gentle swells of Gitchi Gumi (that’s the Native word for Lake Superior). The Clelia II is now heading for Thunder Bay, Ontario.

Raccoon Update!

2010-07-22T10:49:00.000-04:00

The little critter is still on the ship -- but safely caged now. The well-baited live traps did the trick! The captain reported that a large bowl of water was placed in the cage and the raccoon proceeded to wash itself and then sit in the bowl all afternoon as if it was reclining in a swimming pool! The raccoon will be released when we get to Red Rock, Ontario. The passengers are pretty amused by the entire situation. The lines used to tie up the Clelia II in port generally have some collars in place (so curious squirrels and other small animals won’t climb the lines) but several of these collars were missing, which is how the raccoon apparently made it onboard.

July 21: Mackinac Island

2010-07-22T10:48:00.021-04:00

We arrived in Sault Ste. Marie, Ontario, about 7 a.m. today. After breakfast, we departed by bus to St. Ignace, Mich., to catch the Arnold Ferry to Mackinac Island. The weather looked a bit threatening when some fog blew in but it quickly dissipated and bright sun and temperatures in the low 80s were with us the rest of the day! Perfect! We split into two groups on the island. My group first headed by horse drawn carriage to Fort Mackinac where we enjoyed a self-guided tour. Re-enactments are conducted at the Fort every 30 minutes. One included singing of old songs, including “Clementine.” For those who might remember it, the chorus is:

“Oh my darling, Oh my darling, Oh my darling Clementine…you are lost and gone forever, dreadful sorry, Clementine.”

My mom used to sing this song, so it was a nice memory! We then were picked up again by horse drawn carriage and transported to the amazing Grand Hotel for a buffet lunch and walk on the famous porch. The lunch highlight for me was the peel & eat shrimp and smoked salmon – what a treat! The views from the Grand Hotel were stunning. I even made it up to the cupola at the very top of the building where there’s a small bar with more amazing views! After lunch, we were again taken in small groups in horse drawn carriages for a one-hour tour of the island, including history of the notable homes and cemeteries, Mackinac Island State Park and Arch Rock. Our guide, a 19-year old gal who grew up on the island, pointed out that the island was known for the three F’s: fur trading, fishing and fudge! Then back to downtown for more sightseeing, shopping and people watching. Back on board the ship at 7 p.m., we immediately set sail through the Soo Locks, which lift the ship another 25+ feet to Lake Superior. Dinner selections included venison (wonderful), fish and Napolitano pasta. My dinner companions were Edgar & Patricia Terrell from Charlotte, N.C.; friends Roseanna Torretto & Eileen Heaser from Sacramento area of California; and friends Marjorie Scott & Mildred Goelz also from California. Later, on our TVs we were treated to the movie “Somewhere in Time” starring Christopher Reeves and Jane Seymour, which was filmed at the Grand Hotel on Mackinac Island in 1979-80.

Late breaking news: We have a stowaway!

2010-07-21T06:30:00.002-04:00

Yes, Captain Uli announced that a raccoon is on the ship! Apparently it climbed aboard via one of the ship’s lines overnight and was spotted by several passengers and crew members. Traps have been set but so far the big guy is still on the loose! Stay tuned for more updates on this situation tomorrow…

July 20: Manitoulin Island

2010-07-21T06:10:00.014-04:00

I awoke at about 6:30 a.m. to find us already in the North Channel approaching Manitoulin – the world’s largest freshwater island! The Ojibwe first occupied the island more than 10,000 years ago, naming it after the Great Spirit: Manitou, meaning God’s Island. First Nation peoples still constitute over a quarter of the island’s population and every August they celebrate their culture in one of Canada’s largest pow-wows, called Wikwemikong. After a light breakfast on deck, I stationed myself at the bow of the Clelia II to get some photos of the famous swinging bridge, which connects the town of Little Current on Manitoulin Island to the Ontario mainland. We boarded buses in Little Current for a 20-minute ride to the First Nation community of Chigeeng. Here we visited the Immaculate Conception Catholic Church, which was a dome-shaped building half underground, similar in shape to a traditional teepee. The Jesuit priest and a Native woman who served as minister provided us with background on the ceremonial traditions of the church. Dream-catchers hung above the alter, one for each direction: west, north, east, south. Turtles and eagles also were prominent in the artwork in the church. We then made our way across the street to the Ojibwe Cultural Foundation for guided tours of the museum, art gallery and a special smudging ceremony. A young Native man explained the daily burning of sage, sweet grass, cedar and tobacco, and how the resulting smoke is used to cleanse a person’s soul and keep bad spirits from entering their space. To conclude the trip, we assembled in an outside amphitheatre for a traditional pow-wow. Four Natives provided the drum beat and singing, and six dancers in traditional and modern dress entertained us. A father and his six-year-old son did a traditional dance. The wife then did a traditional matrical dance. A teen daughter illustrated the jingle (healing) dance, with her skirt adorned with small metal plates that made a vibrant jingling sound as she moved about the stage. Two other women were dressed in fancy modern costumes and did a high stepping, twirling dance. At the end, all of us were invited to do a circle dance on the stage, which was great fun! Upon returning to the waterfront, we were treated to free ice cream cones (I had mint-chocolate chip) and enjoyed a beautiful walk on the marina boardwalk. Lunch was again outside on the deck and included an amazingly good chicken curry, green salad and fresh pineapple. The Clelia II set sail at 2 p.m. for Sault Ste. Marie and the afternoon was spent enjoying the beautiful scenery: rocky embankments and shoals and the occasional powerboat or kayaker. Guest lecturer Evan Haefeli presented his second talk “When Cadillac and Pontiac Were Men: The Great Lakes Before U.S. Independence.” Dinner tonight was Rainbow trout! My dinner companions at the Smithsonian table were David and Marralyce Seaman from South Dakota; Patty and Mary Frey from Minneapolis; and Lucille Solberg and Mary Lou Zimmer from Seattle and Gig Harbor, Wash. The Clelia II is now underway to Sault Ste. Marie.

July 19: Detroit River, Lake St. Clair, St. Clair River

2010-07-20T15:21:00.011-04:00

We had a rougher than expected ride last night on Lake Erie. I awoke several times to the loud crashing of the Clelia II over choppy waters, but things smoothed out by mid-morning when we entered the Detroit River in bright sunshine. My fellow lecturer from Columbia Univ. gave his first lecture on “The Great Lakes Before Europeans Arrived” at 9:15 a.m. He actually borrowed my computer and a few of my maps and satellite shots of the Great Lakes to augment his talk, which was very informative. He spoke of the three primary tribes around the Great Lakes (the Iroquois, Algonquin and Ojibwa) and their customs and relations with each other and the early Europeans. Giving gifts is a big part of Native tradition. The Europeans viewed gift exchange as an economic transaction, whereas the Native Peoples believed exchanging gifts was a way to build relations and trust. This probably explains why there was little feuding among the tribes until the Europeans arrived! I delivered my second lecture at 11 a.m., focusing on environmental challenges and opportunities. I had packed some lamprey and zebra mussel specimens, which were a big hit! As I finished, I looked out just in time to see us passing under Detroit’s lovely Ambassador Bridge. It was too windy to eat on deck so our buffet lunch (spaghetti, salad, pork loin) was instead enjoyed in the main dining room. The afternoon was relaxing, filled with reading, napping and walking around the deck taking photos of all the passing vessels in Lake St. Clair and the St. Clair River. One channel on the TV in each cabin shows the view from a webcam on the bridge of the ship so you can easily keep tabs on what’s ahead! A boat came alongside the Clelia II at about 5 p.m. and we changed pilots. Later we crossed under the Bluewater Bridge, which connects Port Huron, Mich., and Sarnia, Ontario, and then headed into the open waters of Lake Huron. My dinner companions were Susan Marrinan and Lucy McCabe, both retired judges from California; Joan Baxter, a retired teacher originally from Detroit and now living in Salt Lake City; and Ted and Marty Hartman from Big Sur, Calif. Coincidentally, the Hartmans’ owned a resort (14 redwood cabins) in Big Sur so we had fun exchanging stories since my family, as many of you know, also own a log cabin resort in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. I had almond crusted herring for dinner with an orange salad to start and green tea sorbet for dessert. Two birthdays were celebrated at dinner. One gentleman turned 90 and my dinner companion from the first night (Nancy from Duluth) also was serenaded by the wait staff as they delivered a big cake to her table. Overnight the Clelia II will be heading north through Lake Huron around the Bruce Peninsula to Manitoulin Island. Did I mention that I’m having an absolutely WONDERFUL time?

July 18: Welland Canal & Niagara Falls

2010-07-19T07:28:00.012-04:00

Today came early. I was awakened at 6:30 a.m. by an announcement from the Captain that we were entering the Welland Canal! For the better part of the day we traversed the seven lift locks and one guard lock that lifted the Clelia II up more than 325 feet from Lake Ontario to Lake Erie. I had never been through the locks so it was a special treat. At 10:30 a.m. I delivered my first lecture, focusing on Great Lakes hydrology, including the St. Lawrence, Welland and Soo Locks that make the lakes fully navigable. I felt a bit like Madonna in my cordless microphone headgear! The talk went smoothly though and, as I was expecting, there were a few questions that I couldn’t answer! It’s such a pleasure to be around people who are so informed and eager to learn more. After a light buffet lunch, we traversed the seventh lock and then boarded buses to Niagara Falls. The Maid of the Mist trip was as fun (and wet!) as I remembered. You can see from the photos that we were all decked out in blue plastic ponchos but still managed to get pretty soggy from the neck up!! It was a warm day though (temps in the 80s) so drying out was quick. We also stopped at the brink of the horseshoe falls for more photo ops. The Clelia II had traversed the final lock while we were at the falls so upon returning to the ship, we headed directly into Lake Erie at about 6 p.m. We met the captain of the Clelia II, Uli Demel from Germany/Bavaria, at a reception followed by a late dinner. The 290-ft. Clelia II was built in Greece but flies until the flag of Malta. I hosted a Smithsonian table this evening. The photo shows me and guests Bob Prickett from New Mexico and Gail and Alan Keim from Pennsylvania. Dinner was delicious. My selections were French Onion Soup, spinach salad and prime rib, with vanilla ice cream for dessert. As I write this, I peek out and see white caps on Lake Erie but I only feel slight motion in my cabin. The Clelia II directory says that the ship has two retractable fins, one on each side of the ship. As the ship starts to roll, a sensitive gyromechanism extends and angles the fins to counteract the motion. Who knew?

Niagara Falls and the Welland Canal

2010-07-18T10:25:00.006-04:00

Day 6: Huron Erie Corridor: A Day on the Lakes

2010-07-18T10:05:00.018-04:00

This stretch was the most uneventful of the trip. The St. Clair River is flanked by industrial behemoths on either side: legacies of region's industrial heritage. Lake St. Clair was peaceful enough, but still the views were rather banal compared to the passages, islands and topography of the northern region.

Christine's Journey Begins!

2010-07-18T00:07:00.012-04:00

Hello from Toronto! I boarded the Clelia II at 4:30 p.m. at the former Rochester Ferry pier here in Toronto. I was met with a warm welcome, serenaded by a small drum and bugle corps and given ice cream even before I made it onboard! The cruise director, also a “Christine” but from France, met me with open arms and a big smile. My cabin is on the Leto deck (sounds like the “Love Boat,” I know), warmly furnished in mohagany with lots of mirrors and interesting built-in cabinets and closets. After a short meeting between the tour managers (French Christine, Brian, Janice and Elizabeth) and the two lecturers (me and Evan from Columbia University), we got to experience our first fun: the mandatory safety drill! After an alarm was sounded, we were all instructed to report to the main lounge after retrieving our life vest from our cabin. It was a bit humorous to watch 80+ people (most of whom are over 80!) trying to figure out how to get into their bulky flame orange life jackets! After we all passed the drill, I explored all five decks of the ship and just in time to see a large schooner (tall ship?) passing by, the “Kajama.” Several Tall Ships are traveling through the Great Lakes this summer, currently in Bay City, Mich., July 15-18. I’m hoping we pass more of them on the cruise this week! My dinner companions were Nancy Nelson and her son Paul Treuer from Duluth, Minn. Paul had some great stories of his own, including circumnavigating Lake Superior in a kayak in the early 90s. The food was tasty, as expected. I had red snapper over wild rice, along with a bamboo shoot appetizer, potato soup w/ coconut and peppers, salad, and apple strudel for dessert. Whew, off to bed now. We are still at the dock in Toronto. We set sail at 3:30 a.m. for the Welland Canal.

Day 3: Red Rock Ontario and Nipigon Bay

2010-07-14T13:11:00.007-04:00

We arrive in the small town of Red Rock, located on Nipigon Bay, the northernmost point on Lake Superior. The beautifull cuestas, the rock formations that make up the local landscape and the islands that dot the bay render a stark contrast to the scenery in Thunder Bay. Like Thunder Bay, Nipigon Bay is a Great Lakes Area of Concern. {These are environmentally degraded areas across the Great Lakes. Originally, there were 43, but three have been cleaned up (2 Canadian, and 1 U.S.) and one is in "recovery." } The former papermill was the lifeblood of the town, but since the mill was closed down in the 1990s, the town's population has been cut in half to about 800.
We board zodiac dinghies to go ashore and are greeted by about 20 townspeople including the local mascot, moose, who are lined up on either side of the gangway who greet us with handshakes and warm smiles. I join the group going on a hike to Red Rock, the highest point in the the town and its namesake. A relatively short hike gets us to the high point where we have spectacular views of the bay and the islands nearby. The weather is superb and our Canadian guides don't fail to maintain the reputation of Canadians being kind and helpful every step of the way.
This stop was actually a change from the original itinerary which called for a stop in Houghton, Michigan. The change was made to go to Red Rock instead after the ship could not get permission to from U.S. Customs to stop in Houghton.

Day 4: Soo Locks and Mackinac Island

2010-07-14T13:01:00.004-04:00

I awoke around 7:45 with the ship in the middle of the Poe Lock. Yes, that's what it's called. The people on the ship got a kick out of the name and local tour guide that entertained us on the bus from Sault Ste. Marie, Canada to St. Ignace also capitalized on the pun in the name of this largest of the locks at the Soo. Although I had seen ships go through the Soo Locks before, it was my first time going thrugh the locks on a vessel. My expectations were high and I thought going through the locks would feel more exhilerating. Instead, it was rather uneventful. I guess that's a good thing, as far as navigation is concerned. Still, I'm glad I had the experience. In St. Ignace, our group took a Catamaran to Mackinac Island. Our group had arranged for lunch at the Grand Hotel. The buffet was filled with treats of all kinds of treats. I wished I was more of a dessert person. At the height of tourist season, I couldn't bear to sit 12 in a pack on the horse drawn buggy for a tour, which was the group option after lunch. We opted for renting bikes instead and had a leisurely pedal around the island, stopping for a sunbath and a splash in the azure blue waters that surround Mackinac Island. We met back up with the group at 5, boarded the bus and were back on the ship by 6:30, to get ready for dinner with the Captain. Never a dull moment .

Day 5: Little Current, Manitoulin Island: Finally, An Internet Connection!

2010-07-14T12:44:00.007-04:00

Today is the fifth day on the cruise, but the first day I've had success accessing the internet. If you read my posts according to title (e.g., Day 1, Day 2, etc.) you can follow along chronologically. We woke to a warmly glowing morning sun speckling the islands in the Northern Passage that flanked either side of the ship as we entered the small town of Little Current on Manitoulin Island.

After an uneventful docking at the pier, most of the passengers disembarked and mounted a charter bus for an excursion to a nearby church where members of the First Nation community would engage them in a traditional sage-rubbing ceremony. I can't really elaborate on that excursion, because we didn't participate. Instead, I reviewed my notes for the evening lecture, then we walked around the lovely marina. We inquired with locals about a nearby beach, and after taking a few photos of the sailboats in the marina, we got our bathing suits and towels and headed off to the nearby "beach." The access was disappointing: about a 10 foot opening amidst shoreline vegetation where pier jutted out about 200 feet into the small area of Spider Bay.
The "beach" may have been wanting for shoreline access, but the water was clear and inviting. Standing on the pier, one could see down 15 feet or more to the sandy bottom. We waded in the water, relaxed on the pier and when it got too hot, dove into some of the most refreshing water I've experience in my life. Another nice surprise was the backdrop: looking out onto Spider Bay, and beyond the North Channel, there, one can see the skyline of the La Cloche mountains. (hope the spelling is right:) This little jewel was a wonderful find.

Day 1: Arrive in Duluth

2010-07-12T07:46:00.004-04:00

We are greeted at the airport by a lovely lady from Duluth named Pat. She greets us with a smile and tells us about local lore as we ride the coach from the airport to the ship. The peninsula off of Duluth, she notes, holds title to being the longest freshwater peninsula in the world. I wonder about the Keweenaw, which is magnitudes larger, or the entire Upper Peninsula, also jutting into Lake Superior. And what about the entire lower half of the state of Michigan, commonly known as the "lower peninsula."

A short walk along the Bayfront area takes us to a few shops and eateries along the canal that give life to this northern Great Lakes city that like many, is struggling to reinvent itself.

We leave Duluth and head for Thunder Bay around 6:30 p.m.

Day 2: Thunder Bay Ontario

2010-07-11T16:34:00.008-04:00

We arrive in Thunder Bay around 8 a.m. We had thunderstorms during the night but the ship did not stir. I take my camera to the deck to take some photos of our arrival, but see nothing worthy of a picture. On one side is a factory that appears to be abandoned. On the other side are several piles of large rocks, intented for rip-rap likely, but ended up as a convenient canvass for local graffiti artists.
We rent bikes and go to the local bookstore so I can fact check some points I want to make during the evening lecture I'm scheduled to give. I find an encyclopedia of Great Lakes lighthouses and get lost in it for the good part of an hour. We go to hop on the bikes and head back to the shore, where there is supposed to be a blues festival, but the cloudbursts, literally rain on our parade. We catch a local bus (with bikes and all) and call our jolly-natured pedi-cab owner who rented us the bikes. The bus drives notices that he is in his car in front of the bus: he has come loyally to our rescure. He puts the bike on his car, we get in and return out of the rain to the ship. The afternoon clears up and we try the bikes again. This type to a local pub where we want to catch the final match of the world cup. The score is tied 0-0 (Spain and Holland) when I need to return to the ship and prepare for my evening lecture entitled "Navigating the Freswater Seas." I later learn that Spain has won the 2010 world cup in "extratime."

2010-07-06T15:24:00.004-04:00

Hello from Victoria Pebbles and Christine Manninen. We will be co-lecturers aboard the Clelia II during July 10-17 and July 17-24. We are looking forward to sharing information about the Great Lakes. Check back after July 10 after the voyage begins. Details about the voyage, ship and ports of call online at traveldynamics.com

Looking forward to a great trip!

2010-06-25T11:09:00.002-04:00

A beautiful view of the Mackinac Bridge...

Follow along on our Great Lakes journey!

2010-06-10T16:16:00.003-04:00

Welcome to Cruising the Great Lakes!